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| Mandich |
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3200 Saint Claude Avenue
New Orleans, Louisiana 70117-6659
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ph: 504.947.9553
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LOCAL PERSPECTIVE
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"If you want to know the best bets on the legendary New Orleans dining scene, check in with me. Read my notes, and you'll eat like a king in New Orleans!" -
more by Christopher
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by
Christopher DeBarr
DineSite
Contributor
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Mandich is one of those improbable miracles that can only happen in New Orleans. Located amidst the gritty bohemia of the Lower Ninth Ward in a jumble of seafood shacks, funky bars, and used furniture stores, Mandich preserves a traditional New Orleans atmosphere without skyrocketing tourist prices. The quirky hours mean it's best to go for lunch, Tues. - Fri., to enjoy a casual time warp in a place that remains very easygoing and utterly timeless.
Don't go to Mandich expecting the trendiest wines, or the newest chef who'll spend more time on TV than in his restaurants. Mandich has expanded since its 1947 opening as a neighborhood bar because its classic dishes, especially the seafood, are true landmarks in Creole cuisine. The two most highly recommended ones are Oysters Bordelaise and the namesake Trout Mandich. The oysters are beguilingly simple: fried in corn flour, then zapped with the New Orleans-style bordelaise sauce of garlic, green onions, lemon, and butter and placed on oyster shells. The result is much better than one would guess from such a basic preparation, and for oyster lovers it shouldn't be missed! The trout is unbelievably good: a generous portion of pan-fried fillets of speckled trout with a lemon butter sauce. Even better, order Trout Mandich like a local; ask for the fish to be topped with crabmeat and hollandaise, an option that's not listed on the menu. This is one of the best seafood dishes in a seafood-crazy town, a rich indulgence of calories, but so good that no one can say it's a sin.
Yes, Mandich does have other good dishes in their repertoire, many of them in the Creole-Italian mode featuring veal scaloppini. The desserts are good in a straightforward, homemade way. But the best, and most miraculous, reason to dine at Mandich is that the place is completely unpretentious, despite its pedigree as one of the best old-fashioned restaurants in New Orleans. Mandich is a remarkable treasure, one that locals appreciate with pride and pleasure.
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